Out at the edge of Terlingua — a ghost town in the Chihuahuan Desert — there's a saloon called the Starlight, and it earned that name honestly: until 1991, it had no roof. You looked up, and there were the stars. It's grown from a cantina into a real restaurant now — adobe walls, animal skulls, flags hanging off the beams, chicken-fried antelope steaks and homemade chili on the plate. In the corner stands Clay Henry, a stuffed goat with a Lone Star bottle in his mouth — and in his day, Clay Henry was elected mayor of Lajitas, population about a hundred. Willie Nelson played here during the world championship chili cookoff back in November of 1973. Every New Year's Day, they still throw a whole night of Townes Van Zandt songs. Out this far, the drive is half the show.
In Terlingua, out at the ragged edge of Big Bend, there's a building from 1981 called the Boathouse. Story goes one of the early river-running outfits worked out of here — back when guiding people down the Rio Grande was a brand-new way to make a living. Somewhere in the early 2000s it turned into a bar. Then in 2016 it went dark, like a lot of things do out there. But Greg Hammer wasn't done with it. He reopened the Boathouse, and now it's got a stage — open mic nights for whoever wanders in with a guitar — and out back, a game of petanque, the French cousin of bocce, rolling in the desert dust. Middle of nowhere, and the lights are back on.
Terlingua sits high in the desert, a place where the air is thin and the views stretch forever. It's a land of stark beauty and a feeling of stepping back in time. You might not expect such a remote place to have any famous connections, but it does.
Terlingua, TX RoadyGoat
Terlingua has always been a place on the edge, a place where the rules bend a little. You feel it in the thin air at 3,035 feet, in the endless views stretching toward the Rio Grande. Even with the steady trickle of tourists drawn to the stark beauty of Big Bend, the town retains a certain wildness. But recently, there’s been a new kind of tension simmering beneath the surface, a feeling that even this remote corner of Texas isn't immune to the pressures of the outside world. It centers around the old Chisos Mining Company property, the heart of what was once a booming quicksilver town. The land, once considered worthless after the mines dried up, is now seen as prime real estate. Newcomers, drawn by the promise of that Terlingua freedom, are buying up parcels and building modern homes, some strikingly different from the weathered adobe structures that have defined the town for over a century. While many welcome the investment and the potential boost to the local economy, others worry about preserving the unique character of Terlingua. It’s a clash of cultures, a struggle to define what Terlingua is, and what it will become.
Terlingua Cemetery RoadyGoat
1902
Out along FM 170, past a quicksilver ghost town that Texas mostly abandoned, there's a cemetery from 1902 — and on the night of November second, it glows. An archeologist mapped it a few winters back and counted five hundred and twenty-nine graves. He could name only ninety-eight of them. Most are just rock mounds and crosses cut from picket-fence slats — Mexican miners and their families who fled the trouble in Mexico before the Revolution, then were half-forgotten under the desert. But every grave gets a candle. Bill and Lisa Ivey started that in 1992, walking votive to votive until the whole hillside flickered. They tell a story about that first night — the wind killing their matches, the candles running short, and a matchbook tumbling out of a jar with four words printed on it: "Your host thanks you." Believe that or don't. Out there, with five hundred flames leaning in the dark, you'll want to.
The Chisos Mining Company, a major quicksilver producer, was established in 1903 at Terlingua, in southern Brewster County. Founded by Howard E. Perry , a Chicago industrialist, the Chisos reported the first recovery in 1903, and during the next three decades became one of the nation's leading producers of quicksilver. Initially the company processed the cinnabar ore in primitive retorts, where the silver liquid metal is recovered through a simple baking process. As production increased, Perry turned to more industrialized methods; in 1908 he installed a twenty-ton Scott Furnace to help boost production. Exploration continued, and in 1914 the company discovered one of the richest veins of cinnabar ore in the Terlingua district. This discovery coincided with the outbreak of World War I , and with the increased military demands for the product, the company entered its most successful period. In 1915 the Chisos installed a more modern thirty-ton rotary furnace; within one ten-day period in September 1916 the company shipped two carloads of quicksilver from Alpine, valued at more than $50,000. Although strict secrecy surrounded the operation, one long-time Chisos employee claimed that company profits averaged $2,000 a day during the early war years and yielded more than $1,250,000 in its best year. In 1934 two Texas geologists, E. H. Sellards and C. L. Baker , cited the three-decade Chisos recovery at $12 million. Several factors contributed to the success. First, the property contained some of the richest ore in the quicksilver district; second, although he seldom went to the mine, Perry engaged men of outstanding caliber to supervise the onsite operations (metallurgist William Battle Phillips and geologist Johan August Udden ); third, quicksilver prices peaked during World War I, the period of the mine's maximum recovery; and fourth, an abundance of cheap Mexican labor. The community of Terlingua grew up around the mine. Its some 1,000 inhabitants had access to facilities of modern civilization: a company-owned commissary and hotel, several excellent dwellings (for Anglo employees), a school, a company doctor, telephone service, a dependable water supply, and three-times-a-week mail delivery. Prior to the use of mechanized vehicles in the early 1930s, the mule-drawn wagontrains that delivered the quicksilver to the railroad at Alpine and Marathon supplied the settlement. Production declined during the late 1930s, and on October 1, 1942, the company filed for bankruptcy. The Esperado Mining Company purchased the Chisos assets and operated the mine unsuccessfully until the end of World War II . At that time most of the surface installations were demolished and sold for scrap. On December 6, 1944, Howard E. Perry died in his sleep in a Boston hotel en route to a Florida vacation.
Abandoned mercury mining town near Big Bend. Once produced one-third of all quicksilver mined in the United States.
Terlingua
1890
Famous Texas Ghost Town Terlingua With the mother-ore cinnabar strike in 1890, Terlingua became the world's quicksilver capital, yielding 40 percent of nation's need by 1922. Its name from Terlingua (Three Tongues) Creek nearby, was coined by Mexican herders. Comanche, Shawnees and Apaches lived on its upper reaches. Howard E. Perry's two-story mansion overlooked his Chisos Mining Company and townsite here, where 2,000 miners once used its jail, church, ice cream parlor, and theater. The mine flooded, mineral price fell and Terlingua died after World War II. (1966)
Villalba family tradition traces their lineage to Algiers where several generations were members of the order of Santiago. In 1764, Federico's great-grandfather, Juan Villalba, traveled to New Spain (Mexico). He founded Rancho Villalba in 1773 near present-day Aldama, Chihuahua, where Federico Villalba was born in 1858. Federico left his family's ranch and moved to San Carlos near the U.S.-Mexico border. He set up a store, selling rope, leather goods and sundries; it soon became important in San Carlos, and eventually supplied the military in the area. In the early 1880s, Villalba expanded his business interests into Texas. He settled in an area he called Cerro Villalba and opened a store. In 1889, Federico married Maria Cortez and began purchasing land. In 1902, Villalba located an outcrop of cinnabar, a mineral that produces mercury, and became the first Hispanic in the county to file a mining claim. Villalba, Tiburcio de la Rosa, D. Alarcon, and William study entered into a partnership that covered six parcels of twenty-one acres each, including what became known as the study butte mine. The Associated Mining Community took on the mine's name (Study Butte), as did Villalba's store (Study Butte Store). With a growing family, Federico built a larger house on his property along Terlingua Creek and named it Rancho Barras. Villalba amassed large tracts of land, including 15 sections in block G-4, with holdings extending from Burro Mesa to Terlingua Creek. During his life, Federico gained a reputation as a businessman and rancher, and as an advocate for Mexican Americans of the Big Bend. Villalba died of natural causes in 1933 on his ranch and is buried in Terlingua Cemetery. Federico and his legacy embody the spirit of a Texas pioneer. (2014)
Brewster County (L-7), the largest county in Texas, is located in the Trans-Pecos region of West Texas, and is the site of Big Bend National Park , the largest park in the state. Brewster County is bordered by Presidio County to the west, Jeff Davis County to the northwest, Pecos County and Terrell County to the east, and the Rio Grande to the south. Alpine, the county seat and largest town, is 220 miles southeast of El Paso in northwestern Brewster County. The county's center lies about fifty miles southeast of Alpine at approximately 29°51' north latitude and 103°01' west longitude. U.S. Highway 90 and the Southern Pacific Railroad cross the northern part of the county; U. S. Highway 385 and State Highway 118 enter Brewster County from the northeast and northwest, respectively, and run south to Big Bend National Park; and the South Orient Railroad crosses the northwestern part of the county. Brewster County comprises 6,169 square miles of largely rough and mountainous terrain, with elevations ranging from 1,700 to 7,825 feet above sea level; the latter elevation, the tenth highest in the state, is at Emory Peak . Most of Brewster County drains into the Rio Grande, although the northern part drains into the Pecos River. Soils are generally shallow and stony, with some loamy to sandy soils and clayey subsoils. Vegetation at lower elevations in the county is drought resistant; sparse grasses, desert shrubs such as ocotillo, lechuguilla, sotol, acacias, tarbrush, and creosote bush, some mesquite, and cactus predominate. At intermediate elevations vast grasslands occur in mountain basins; white oak, juniper, and piñon woodlands dominate the slopes. Douglas fir, aspen, Arizona cypress, maple, Arizona pine, oaks, and madrone are found at the higher elevations. The fauna in Brewster County includes the pronghorn antelope, mule deer, white-tail deer, bobcat, mountain lion, desert bighorn sheep, black bear, coyote, raccoon, badger, prairie dog, pack rat, kangaroo rat, skunk, ringtail cat, porcupine, jackrabbit, cottontail, golden eagle, roadrunner, quail, dove, rock wren, white-winged dove, mourning dove, Canyon Wren, painted bunting, zone-tailed black hawk, and Colima warbler. Mineral resources include mercury, silver, lead, fluorspar, nonceramic clay, and lignite coal. Of these, the most important to the historical development of Brewster County was mercury; for most of the first half of the twentieth century the Terlingua Mining District in southern Brewster County was among the nation's leading producers ( see MERCURY MINING ). The climate is subtropical-arid. The average minimum temperature in January is 34° F, and the average maximum temperature in July is 95°. The growing season averages 239 days a year, and the average annual precipitation is twelve inches. Less than 1 percent of the land in the county is considered prime farmland. The area of southern Brewster County now in Big Bend National Park has long fascinated man, who has lived there for more than 9,000 years. The first human beings in the Big Bend were probably nomadic hunters and gatherers moving south ahead of the great ice sheets of the North American glaciers. When a prolonged period of drought ensued, the large game animals disappeared, and so did the people. When the drought ended, between 4000 and 3000 b.c., man reappeared. By around a.d. 1000 residents of the area were practicing rudimentary agriculture and could no longer be considered nomadic; and by the time the Spanish began to arrive, in the sixteenth century, pueblo culture had begun in the Big Bend. The first European to set foot in what is now Brewster County may have been Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1535; more certain is the presence in August 1583 of Antonio de Espejo 's expedition, which probably passed the future site of Alpine en route to La Junta de los Ríos . Juan Domínguez de Mendoza is believed to have camped at Kokernot Spring , just northeast of Alpine, in 1684. But
The Chisos Mining Company, a major quicksilver producer, was established in 1903 at Terlingua, in southern Brewster County. Founded by Howard E. Perry , a Chicago industrialist, the Chisos reported the first recovery in…
You're driving through the Big Bend region, and right here, you're passing through the story of Terlingua. Once a booming mining camp, this place was the epicenter of quicksilver production in the early 1900s. By 1922,…
Brewster County (L-7), the largest county in Texas, is located in the Trans-Pecos region of West Texas, and is the site of Big Bend National Park , the largest park in the state. Brewster County is bordered by Presidio…
You're driving through the vast Big Bend region, and right here, the story of a name unfolds. Terlingua Creek. Some say it's Spanish for 'three tongues,' a nod to the three forks of this waterway, or maybe the three…
Terlingua, TX · 2.5 mi
Terlingua sits high in the desert, a place where the air is thin and the views stretch forever. It's a land of stark beauty and a feeling of stepping back in time. You might not expect such a remote place to have any…
Out at the edge of Terlingua — a ghost town in the Chihuahuan Desert — there's a saloon called the Starlight, and it earned that name honestly: until 1991, it had no roof. You looked up, and there were the stars. It's…
Out along FM 170, past a quicksilver ghost town that Texas mostly abandoned, there's a cemetery from 1902 — and on the night of November second, it glows. An archeologist mapped it a few winters back and counted five…
In Terlingua, out at the ragged edge of Big Bend, there's a building from 1981 called the Boathouse. Story goes one of the early river-running outfits worked out of here — back when guiding people down the Rio Grande…
Terlingua Ghost Town · 2.5 mi · Historical Marker
Abandoned mercury mining town near Big Bend. Once produced one-third of all quicksilver mined in the United States.
Famous Texas Ghost Town Terlingua With the mother-ore cinnabar strike in 1890, Terlingua became the world's quicksilver capital, yielding 40 percent of nation's need by 1922. Its name from Terlingua (Three Tongues)…
Working the quicksilver furnaces at Terlingua was not for the faint of heart. Miners who inhaled mercury fumes developed a horrifying condition called…
Howard Perry the Chicago magnate who founded the Chisos Mining Company never actually lived in Terlingua full time but he built himself a grand stone mansion…
In 1967 two journalists got into a very public feud over who knew more about chili. Car legend Carroll Shelby who owned a 220000-acre ranch nearby offered…
Terlingua was a booming quicksilver mining town of two thousand souls in the 1920s until the mercury market collapsed and everyone left. The adobe ruins still…
Terlingua Cemetery opened in 1902 as a resting place for miners killed extracting toxic mercury from the earth. Over 500 graves dot the desert hillside many…
By 1950 Terlingua was truly dead -- a ghost town with tumbledown buildings and empty mine shafts. But in the late 1960s hippies river runners and artists…
At its peak around 1922 the tiny desert outpost of Terlingua produced a staggering forty percent of all mercury mined in the United States. That liquid silver…
Before he was known for the chili cookoff Carroll Shelby -- the same man who built the legendary Shelby Cobra -- owned a sprawling 220000-acre ranch near…
Villalba family tradition traces their lineage to Algiers where several generations were members of the order of Santiago. In 1764, Federico's great-grandfather, Juan Villalba, traveled to New Spain (Mexico). He founded…
In the 1930s the Chisos Mining Company built a movie theater to entertain its miners in the middle of the desert. When the mines went bust in the 1940s the…
Visitors to Terlingua Ghost Town have reported seeing the apparitions of fallen miners wandering the dusty streets for decades. One famous story involves Bill…
Study Butte Quicksilver Mines · 3.5 mi · Historical Marker
The name is pronounced "Stoody Byoot," and if you get it wrong, the locals will know you just arrived. Will Study came to this remote stretch of the Chihuahuan Desert in the early 1900s to mine cinnabar, a blood-red ore…
You're driving through Study Butte, a Texas community born from the earth's bounty... and a little bit of lead. Right here, mercury mining boomed around 1900, giving life to this spot and its neighbor, Terlingua. The…
You're driving through southwestern Brewster County, not far from Study Butte. Right here, Bee Mountain rises sharply from the desert flats. It's named for the countless wild honey bee hives that settlers once found in…
The Rio Grande carved this canyon through solid limestone over millions of years, and the result is one of the most dramatic landscapes on the continent. Santa Elena's walls rise 1,500 feet straight up from the water,…
1500-foot canyon walls at the border of the US and Mexico. Big Bend's most dramatic sight.
Lajitas - Beer-Drinking Goat Mayor · 10.5 mi · Historical Marker
Lajitas sits on the Rio Grande at one of the oldest river crossings in the Big Bend, a place where Comanche, smugglers, and Pancho Villa's raiders all forded the shallow water. For most of its history, it was a trading…
Tuff Canyon · 11.1 mi
The pale walls in front of you are made from volcanic ash. A violent eruption blasted hot ash, dust, and rock fragments across the landscape. The material settled, compacted, and hardened into a rock called tuff.…
Castolon, TX · 11.4 mi
In 1901, Castolon, Texas, was first settled by Cipriano Hernandez, who farmed the area and built the original Castolon Store, now known as the Alvino House. The area attracted refugees from the Mexican Revolution of…
Lajitas, TX · 11.7 mi
Lajitas. The name itself, "little flat rocks," hints at the rugged beauty that defines this place. It's a quiet corner of Texas, but don't let the peace fool you; this land has seen its share of characters. The early…
Imagine a thriving community carved out of this harsh desert landscape – that was Castolon. It started around 1901 when Cipriano Hernandez settled here and began farming. He even built the original Castolon store.…
You're driving past Lajitas, a place named for the local flagstone, and its historic cemetery. For centuries, this crossing on the Rio Grande was used by Native American tribes and Spanish explorers. Later, it became a…
Pull off the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive in Big Bend and walk to the rim of a slot canyon cut into volcanic ash. Tuff is what geologists call solidified ash from…
The Chisos Basin is the eroded heart of an extinct volcanic caldera. All the rain that falls inside the basin drains out through a single V-shaped notch called…
Back in 1903 a Chicago businessman named Howard Perry struck it rich in the Chisos Mountains -- not with gold but with cinnabar the blood-red ore that yields…
Big Bend National Park, TX · 18.0 mi
Big Bend National Park is home to the Chisos Mountains, the only mountain range fully contained within a U.S. national park. The park's diverse geology includes sea fossils, dinosaur bones, and volcanic dikes. The Rio…
The Solitario is a nearly perfect ten-mile circular dome of upturned rock in the middle of Big Bend Ranch State Park. A magma intrusion thirty-five million…